Few places in the Cape Winelands have as much to offer the discerning traveller who enjoys the path less travelled, than Wellington near Paarl.
Who dares, wins, goes the classic quote. Sometimes the most wonderful adventures await when you choose byways over highways. The village and surrounds of Wellington in the Cape Winelands is one of these charming and under-the-radar rewards, awaiting away from city bustle.
Wellington has always been the final, brief stop for most travellers, before crossing the mountains to the interior or returning from the lands beyond. It remains so, despite the wagon trails now being covered with asphalt and engines taking us where we need to go. The town is still the proverbial wave goodbye and the cheerful reunion, through the wholesome hospitality its people have come to cultivate.
This is a story we’re reminded of by Go Wellington, the area’s wine valley tourism organization. Theirs is an invitation to come and experience that sweet temptation, first-hand. Back in the day, Wellington was a rustic backwater known for its wagon artisans who thrived on the mountain-crossing traffic. But no more. Wellington has evolved into a place of timeless elegance in the most boutique and intimate sense.
Seclusion is treasure
Its seclusion is its greatest treasure, where wine farms and exclusive accommodation shelters among the hills and lush crannies of the valley. It is a quiet haven of exquisite possibility.
The Wellington wine region lies just a 60-minute drive from Cape Town, at the foot of the Hawequa and Drakenstein Mountains. They form the amphitheatre that couches the region and its winelands, lending a magical air after the legends of dragons that once lived among its misty peaks. Here lie farms and restaurants, kilometres of trails and beautiful stays.
Among the area’s most renowned wineries and farms are Bosman Family Vineyards, Canetsfontein, Diemersfontein Estate, Doolhof, Andreas, Dunstone, Imbuko, Jacaranda Wines & Guest Farm, Mont Du Toit, Upland Organic Wine and Brandy, Welgegund Estate, Wellington Wines and Wolvenhoek Vineyards. Together, the present a range of unparalleled and surprising food and wine delights.
The valley presents a magnificent beauty at the foot of Bainskloof, famous for the pass built by Thomas Geddes Bain. Vineyards roll over hills like soothing green waves, their produce among the most highly praised in the country and even the world. This reputation isn’t due to a unique terroir alone, although the diverse microclimates and ancient soils are hallmarks of their excellence. Here too is the skill and experience amassed over generations, on what varieties do best and where they should be planted.
Time is a relative concept when quality is the goal.
Diversity of wine
It is for this reason that the wine selection is as equally broad as the scenery. Expect, for one, to find Wellington-made bubblies, rosés, whites and innovative styles that really shine. All the traits of excellence are there: crisp and delicious flavours, delightful aromatics, balance and elegance.
As for the reds, time has crafted an equally auspicious portfolio that incorporates wines made to age, those ready to enjoy soon after bottling and everything in between. These are not purely winter wines, but a spread of choice that makes them welcome whatever the season.
Notably, Wellington is home to vine nurseries that are the origin of some 80% of the country’s vineyards, and some of the oldest vineyards too.
No surprise then, when it’s a Wellington wine that turns out to be the showstopper at a lunch or dinner with friends. The wines are always a talking point and also the reason why they are so often praised for their food and occasion-pairing versatility.
An ideal mix of luxurious experiences
Go Wellington chairman Dirk Vaeye says the valley keenly shares its heritage by promoting access to historic sites, such as The Old Tannery. A former leatherwork company, the large complex stood derelict until it was repurposed as an office and shopping quarter among the vineyards. Open-air events are also regularly held there to promote the region’s food and wine. It makes a worthwhile visit for shoppers and history nuts alike.
Experiencing Wellington’s full gamut, however, just gets better the longer you stay. Reserve accommodations in one of the area’s luxury guesthouses on a wine farm or in the village, or find the ideal self-catering option for a more accessible family option. There’s little better than rising to the call of birds and setting off down an unknown track for that early-morning walk or cycle; and, wrapping the day with a fire at sunset and the pop from a fresh bottle of Cap Classique.
You’ll easily fill a day whether at the hand of a guide in one of the wineries’ barrel-lined maturation cellars, sign up for some of the many activities organised by local operators. If you’re a group, be sure to pack the kids’ bikes too! They’ll be getting plenty of exercise and fresh air. Visit a nature reserve, climb a mountain, go skydiving or go fishing. If you’re a keen golfer, there’s a double bonus. Not only can you play on a beautifully maintained nine-hole course, but you’re also surrounded by some of the most spectacular scenery. End on a high note, no matter how you played, with a glass of Wellington wine at the clubhouse.
Try Wellington’s excellent spirits
But the fruit of the grape doesn’t stop at wine. Wellington has some fascinating distillieries known for their outstanding spirits. Among them are the fine old brandies from Oude Wellington or Upland Organic Wine and Brandy Estate, and the world-champion whiskies from the James Sedgwick Distillery.
For a little culture, visit the Breytenbach Centre, which was once the childhood home of the late South African poet Breyten Breytenbach and where his parents ran as a boarding house. See the venue’s art gallery or book tickets for a play at Die Bôrdienghuis Teater.
Another prominent character you can’t miss during a stay in Wellington is Andrew Murray, a statue of whom adorns the front steps of the imposing Dutch Reformed Church. Dr Murray was a Scot by birth and a leading church minister of his time. Wellington was his final resting place, and commemorates not only him but his contributions to many socially beneficial initiatives.
He overlooks the length of the high street, which you shouldn’t miss for a stroll. Here’s the opportunity to balance your exercise with a coffee and homemade cake at one of the many little sidewalk cafés; or, to peruse the handful of antique shops along the way.
For in them are the glimpses of Wellington, officially established in the mid-1800s. Much like diamonds, they’re hard to find and not for everyone, but always worth it.
If a visit to Wellington is not possible now, get a head start by ordering wines from the farms, all of whom have online stores offering home-delivery. Follow the latest news and experiences of the region by following Go Wellington on Facebook and Instagram. If you want to know even more, visit www.gowellington.co.za, sign up for the organisation’s newsletter or send email to admin@gowellington.co.za.
