Two kills were witnessed in less than 60 minutes – this is most certainly the Waterberg Biosphere Region, more specifically Newmark’s Qwabi Private Game Reserve.
The wildebeest herd looks anxious and ready to run as it senses danger in the area… and rightly so. Four lions are on the hunt – two lionesses and two cubs. In a moment we hear the loud squealing of a baby wildebeest – it was taken down by a lioness. The lioness passes over the prey to the cubs possibly as a training exercise in learning how to hunt. The cubs (a male and a female) lack the finesse of the mother and take some time to finish the kill.
About 500m ahead, another lioness managed to take down host an adult wildebeest – there is no prolonged screams from this wildebeest as the lioness proves to be a proficient and skilled hunter.
Over the course of 2.5 days, lions featured prominently on the game drives for vastly different actions – hunts and mating rituals. Qwabi, home to the Big 5, is a protected haven for wildlife to roam approximately 11 000 hectares of savanna and grasslands. There is something incredibly magical about being allowed to witness these majestic creatures in their natural habitat.
From a conservation perspective, Qwabi has invested heavily over the years in creating an environment that seeks to preserve healthy wildlife populations. It has successfully reintroduced the Big 5, and the wildlife – such as lions, zebras, giraffes, monkeys, various types of buck, hippos, and more – can all be seen from the game drive vehicle. They are the picture of vitality, with healthy coats and proper size proportions.
A luxurious stay
I was fortunate to experience stays at two of Qwabi’s three lodges, namely Letamo and Babohi.
Letamo is the largest lodge at Qwabi and is a bit more family-orientated with child-friendly activities available. The décor is modern African chic with tasteful finishes that seamlessly blend in with the natural surroundings.
Babohi in general – wow! The décor features earthy tones mixed with blues and carefully curated African art and artifacts. The rooms at Babohi oozes luxury. I appreciated the privacy provided by the rooms here. The room was spacious with thoughtful touches (including a mini gin and tonic-making station – I was sold on this). Stepping out onto the private patio affords guests panoramic views of the bushveld – it is the perfect spot to lie about while enjoying a book and a drink. Babohi is geared towards adult guests.
While both lodges offer spa facilities, I had my spa experience at Babohi with a massage therapist who was intuitively attuned to what my shoulders and back needed. (I also enjoyed being golf-carted along the hilly slopes of the property from my room to the reception/dinner/spa areas).
An explosion of flavours
On the first day at Letamo Lodge, we arrived for a late lunch. Seated outside near the infinity pool with the savannah as the backdrop, the feast was artfully displayed and featured an array of colors, from salads to mains to desserts. Everything was simply divine!
That evening, Letamo Lodge treated us to a delightful surprise. After our afternoon game drive, instead of heading to the restaurant for dinner, we were driven up a hill for a magical bush dinner under the African sky! Being high up, we witnessed an amazing sunset while taking in the stunning surroundings. The service was impeccable with a snack area, bar area and a buffet offering. The atmosphere at dinner was relaxed and the flavour profiles of the variety of dishes had me wanting some recipes!
Breakfast at Letamo and Babohi is a combination of buffet style and a la carte for hot breakfasts.
At Babohi, I experienced an afternoon “high-tea” with a difference. I declined the tea and went for a cold beverage instead. I was rather glad none of those cucumber sandwiches were presented and instead fell in love with the ribs, mozzarella cheese sticks, tiramisu, and basically everything on offer. I loved this South Africanised version of “high-tea”.
Dinner at Babohi featured an à la carte menu with spectacular presentation and spot-on flavours.
(To note: during game drives stops are made for beverage breaks, such as a morning coffee, hot chocolate, or tea with some snacks, and similarly the afternoon drives offer some cooling beverages).
Being present
Many game reserves in the Waterberg region offer amazing safari experiences. Qwabi Private Game Reserve is set apart due to the impeccable service of the team. Staff at both Letamo Lodge and Babohi Lodge are welcoming, friendly, professional, knowledgeable and personable.
Being out in the bushveld is an incredibly revitalising experience. It feels free and uncluttered. One of the key takeaways for me was mindfulness. Being in the bush leaves no room for thoughts of yesterday or tomorrow – it’s about immersing yourself in the moment. Qwabi highlights the sheer beauty of South Africa’s landscapes – the savannah stretches as far as the eye can see, mountains and rolling hills loom in the distance, thriving wildlife wander around, and while there are distinct rustling sounds of the wind, wildlife, insects, and birds there is a stillness that feels quite tranquil.
I was at Qwabi for about 2.5 days and unfortunately did not have enough hours in the day to fully experience everything such as padel courts, the library, and so forth. I suppose this is as good as any excuse to head back in the future…
Waterberg Biosphere Reserve
- QWABI is located within the Waterberg Biosphere Reserve, part of the greater Waterberg Region in Limpopo, South Africa.
- This reserve is one of only two UNESCO-declared savannah biospheres in Africa and is recognised as a critical biodiversity area by the South African National Biodiversity Institute.
- The landscape has been relatively untouched by humans and few tarred roads exist, giving visitors an immersive bush experience.
- The region is also home to rivers, natural pans and streams, breathtaking mountain gorges, and rock formations that display rock paintings by the San, who entered the region thousands of years ago.
